Dust Spotting in Lightroom – Nice and easy trick to find the spots.

Dust spots on the filter over the sensor of your digital camera will show up in your photos, and can be a problem to fix. Adobe Lightroom has a straightforward spot removal tool in the develop module, and it works well. But it can be a problem finding the spots to remove. Here’s a nice and easy trick to help find those hard to see dust specks in Lightroom.

In this image we have a snow scene zoomed in to 1:1 to look for dust spots, there is one there but it is not exactly obvious.

LR Spot 1

Snow Scene Zoomed in at 1:1 in Lightroom Develop

So let’s have another look. This time with the Detail Masking selected and holding down the Alt key to view the affected areas of the mask.

LR Spot 2

Snow Scene at 1:1 with Detail Mask view in Lightroom

Hello, what’s that strange halo shaped mark below the tree branch? That’s right it’s dust!

All you need to do now is click on the spot removal tool (or press “Q” the keyboard shortcut), position the spot removal circle over the dust and click. It should be gone.

Here’s a quick overview of the process I use to remove spots in Lightroom.

  1. Open the selected image in Develop (Shortcut key “D”).
  2. Zoom in to 1:1 using the Navigation panel on the left (Shortcut key “Z”). Make sure that 1:1 is selected in the Navigation panel if using the shortcut key, Lightroom uses the last zoom level you used, so if it was set at 1:2 this will be the result. You must be at 1:1 to view the masking.
  3. Use the Home key on your keyboard to position the zoom at the top left of your image and check for dust.
  4. Open the Detail panel and click the cursor on the Masking slider, moving it to the right, and hold down “Alt” in Windows (or “Option” for Mac) to see the masking affect. You must have a sharpening amount enabled to see the change, if there is no sharpening set nothing will happen. You can just click on Sharpening to set the default amounts in Lightroom if needed, this will reset the Masking to zero so you will need to adjust the slider.
  5. Look for dust spots again, you might find something that was not easily visible in the normal zoom view.
  6. Use the Spot Removal tool to remove the spots if there are any. (Shortcut key “Q”). You can adjust the size of the Spot Removal circle to use a good size to just cover your dust. You can also move the spot circle if it isn’t quite in the correct position. You can also move the sample area circle to choose a better match  to clone from.
  7. Once happy with your dusting move to the next area of your image using the “Pg Dn” key on your keyboard. Note that you will need to move the cursor off the Masking slider to do this, otherwise the “Pg Dn” key will adjust the slider amount instead of moving the page down.
  8. Repeat as necessary until you have cleaned your image of dust spots.

If you have a number of images with the same framing you can copy the spot removal over to the next shot, saving having to go through the process for each image. To do this right click on the dusted image and select setting / copy settings. This will bring up an option panel where you can select the Spot Removal check box (top right), then press copy. Generally I will select the Check None button first to make sure I’m not copying something else over. Then select the images you want to copy the Spot Removal to, right click and select Develop Settings / Paste Settings. Using this with images that have different framing can have drawbacks, you might find the selected areas are now copying parts of objects over to the Spot Removal. For example a slightly different framing of the snow scene could result in copying twigs or branches over, with disastrous results!

Posted in Computer Help, Lightroom, Software | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Ice Butterfly & Lightroom 4 White Balance Adjustment Brush

My earlier Ice Butterfly post was an image I was pretty happy with, but I really felt it could be improved with a warmer white balance on the birch leaf. The shaded conditions had been perfect for creating a beautiful blue reflection in the ice, but the same shaded conditions had given a strange colour to the birch leaf, a really awful colour in fact.

I could have created two versions and adjusted the layers in Photoshop Elements to fix that ….. but there was a new version of Photoshop Lightroom (my main editing software) coming out soon, and the blurb mentioned it would have white balance adjustment brush options. So rather than make myself lots of work I decided to hang on and see how I could use the adjustment brush in Lightroom 4 to try to fix that. I have many, many, many ice shots that have the same problem, and the idea of creating two images at differing white balances for each and merging them in PSE was frightening to say the least.

Finally the software has arrived, and I was keen to check the possibilities of the white balance adjustment brush. For those without experience of Lightroom, the basics of the adjustment brush is that you click on an area in an image that you want to alter, and then you paint over the area you need to fix. Then you can tweak various settings to change that area. You can change all sorts here, exposure / contrast / saturation / sharpening / noise; but then new addition to LR4 that interested me was white balance.

So I gave it a go, and was immediately disappointed.  Why? Because it doesn’t let you paint a particular white balance. If you have a area in the image that needs a warmer white balance, you can’t just choose cloudy or shade, you have to tweak the colour temperature and tint from a setting of zero. Now if it was a colour temperature setting in degrees kelvin (say 5500 for daylight) I could move it to cloudy (6500) or shade (7500). All you can do is move in numbers from + or – zero. What does that mean? I downloaded the manual, totally useless, doesn’t even tell you that your options are above or below zero.

So what to do? Play with the controls, and see what you get!

Here’s the shot processed in Lightroom 3 as per my original post of the ice butterfly.

LR4 DaylightYou can see that the blue sky has given the ice a lovely reflection, but you can also see that the leaf has also taken on the blue, creating a cool colour cast.

So what does this shot look like with a shade white balance setting?

LR4 CloudyYou can see that the blue sky colouration has faded , removing the cool blue feel on the ice. But, you can also see that the leaf has lost the blue, creating a more natural colour.

Now, at this stage you could be forgiven for thinking that the cloudy white balance has a more natural feel to it. And, to be honest, you are forgiven. However, I do like the extreme of the blue in the daylight image, and would like to keep that. It is what I felt I saw when I was looking at the subject, and on the LCD screen on the back of the camera. When I took this shot I saw blue ice. No argument as far as I’m concerned.

So, lets play with the adjustment brush in the Develop module in Lightroon 4 and see what we can achieve.

LR4 Wb Adjustment Brush.OK, for me this works! The ice has the blue, and the leaf has the shade white balance look – not the insipid cool blueish tint of the first frame. Job done.

Now, I know that people like to know a bit about settings when converting photos, so I think I should share them.

First, the original image was tweaked in LR3 in the develop module to get the result I was looking for. I was happy with the overall contrast and exposure for the shot. But the leaf colour was way off what I would call a natural result.

Second, the same image was made into a virtual copy in LR4, and the white balance was changed from As Shot (Temp 5150 / Tint +6) to Shade (Temp 7500 / Tint  +10).

Third, another virtual copy was made, and left at the As Shot white balance. Now I had to start playing in the Develop module. I selected the adjustment brush and painted over the leaf  using the following brush settings: Size 3 / Feather 66 / Flow 55 / Density 64 with the Auto Mask option ticked. Obviously this will depend on the file you are using and the camera the original image was taken with. I can’t pretend to understand that side of things, and there can not be a recipe to follow from what I understand, so will move on.

I now played with the Temp and Tint sliders to try to replicate the leaf colour of the Shade image. I found by using the left and right arrow keys to swap between the 3 images, tweaking the adjustments, the leaf colour of the As Shot image could be changed to almost match the leaf colour of the Shade virtual copy. The Temp setting ended at +70, and the Tint ended at +28.

Well I expect I can now copy these setting to every photo I have of the same type of subject and get a perfect result. Or maybe not.

It would certainly be a lot simpler to be able to adjust the white balance settings in the camera style settings of daylight, cloudy, shade, etc.. But LR4 doesn’t work that way.

I wish it did, but it doesn’t – so I am slightly disappointed that Adobe call this a white balance adjustment. That’s not how I read the blurb.

But I think the possibilities for adjusting differing white balances within scenes is incredibly useful. I will certainly be thinking differently about what Lightroom can do now, and once you try it yourself, I’m sure you will too.

Posted in Close Ups, Computer Help, Fishpool, Ice, Lightroom, Software | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Polarisers and Ice.

In my earlier post Ice Butterfly I mentioned that a twist of the polarising filter on ice patterns can give quite different results. To show what I mean I’ve created a few slide shows that include the same framing with varied settings of the polarising filter.

It can be difficult to see the effect due to the fades of the slide show. As an alternative, you can change the slides manually, just hover the cursor over the image and you will be given clickable arrows to change the slides yourself.


Notice the changes in the patterns in the ice here. The edges vary in contrast and tone, as does the surface of the ice.


Here the sharp edges of the ice patterns are also picking up colours from the surrounding vegetation. If you think of the edges as angled mirrors, you can see that the different angles they are leaning to will create a different reflection depending on the area they are reflecting from.


With the reflected birches in these images there are some subtle, and not so subtle, changes in the pool surface reflection.

Ideally you should decide on the position of the polariser at the time you take the photograph. I took the variations seen here so that you can see what the possibilities are. What you choose is……your choice.
Of course with digital you can shoot all the different frames you want, finding your favourite on the computer afterwards will probably be a real headache though!

 

Posted in Chobham Common NNR, Fishpool, Ice, Surrey | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Some more favourites from other photographers best of 2011.

Oops, somehow I missed Jim’s personal selection - a must see!

The following are all nice work and worth a look.

Chris Moore.

David Patterson.

Sven Seebeck – the dark wave at the top could be cropped but I love the bark on the trees.

Zach Frailey – painted snow.

Younes Bounhar.

Craig Ferguson – varied Taiwan.

Clark Crenshaw – Lake Martin Egret.

Jeroen Mentens – insects.

Asif Patel – HDR but why not?

Patrick Gensel – Land of the Golden Sun.

Edith Levy – oops, more HDR!

Eric Strensland.

OK, I have looked all the way through to 100, and only added 12 that weren’t *** in Jim’s list.

What I am finding is that some are not getting added almost immediately, here are some of the reasons…

  1. Images too small to see – thumbsize as opposed to thumbnails!
  2. Navigation difficult.
  3. The set up you are using is odd – but I find 500+ is nice (though Google+ not so nice?). And some of the flikr ones.
  4. What’s your name? (I’m adding posts by name + URL).
  5. Text too difficult to read.
  6. Not my cup of tea.

Notice anything about that list? Content is coming last, the rest make it hard to view the post!

Minna Kinnumen – I already view this blog, but the text is pretty small.

Jeff Revell (I think) – Death Valley – loved the dunes against the mountains.

Roman Schatz – 2.

Amanda Herbert – seashore/pier images – some nice portraits too.

Anne McKinnell – boneyard.

Fred Mertz – a few.

John Lemen – not sure if the architect should get the glory though…..still a great shot.

Pete Carr – Little Time Machine – JUst go take a look at this site. I might even get interested in HDR after his really great explanation of it in his HDR Tutorial.

Fedor Pikus – I have to get here, another one for the bucket list…

Sudheendra Kadri – Grass and reflections – could crop some to make a pano.

Steve Mattheis – Owl on perch – that has to be the best perch ever.

Shirley Lo – co existing -amazing shot.

Wndy Baker – bridges and river.

Well I finally finished, I hope there are some pictures you enjoy here. Now I better get on with something else…..

Posted in Favourites | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Ice Butterfly.

Ice Butterfly.

Ice Butterfly.

The freezing, thaw, freezing circle on the surface of water can create incredible patterns. Here I imagine the shapes to resemble an ice butterfly.

If you find patterns in ice on a day with a clear blue sky you can take advantage of the sky reflecting on the ice, forming a cold , sometimes almost molten metal feel to the image. There can be many variations to the end result if you use a polariser, slight twists can make quite big changes to the look of the final photo.

At this time of year you have a good chance of finding a huge variety of similar patterns on frozen water. Care in focusing is essential, as is aperture selection for the best depth of field for the subject. Clearly, it is best to try to keep detail across the frame for shots like this, but it is not as easy as it sounds. Here I used  my Canon 60D and 70-200mm F4 L lens, at 200mm. The aperture selected was f11, in an effort to get a balance between good definition from the lens and enough depth of field. The end result left some undesirable softness below the framing shown here, so a crop to square format was necessary, and actually made a more pleasing capture.

Posted in Chobham Common NNR, Close Ups, Composition, Fishpool, Ice, Surrey | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment